So, you’ve escaped the heat of Mexico’s Yucatan or Gulf coast and reached Palenque. Now the extraordinary archeological zone’s world famous Mayan architecture awaits your exploration and enjoyment. Take time to speculate about the roof combs, the drainage system, and sculpture. What a fantastic, even alien, site with its cooler weather provided by the hills and tropical rain forest. 

Many tourists achieve the dream and delight of visiting Palenque. Unfortunately, the majority never realize by traveling about thirty-five miles farther south on Highway 199, they can place an exclamation point on an already wonderful trip. Luckily, on most of my trips to Palenque, I’ve been heading to the Pacific allowing me the pleasure of discovering many additional spectacular, yet little-known tourist sites. 

Highway 199 to Ocosingo is a narrow, curvy, blacktop climbing ever higher into tree-shrouded hills. There are few spots to stop along the road. However, just off the highway are several magical areas where nature mixes jungle, hills and flowing water into spectacular scenery. Signs indicate cars can safely pull off the road at these spots. One such setting is the waterfall Misol-Há. 

Pulling off the blacktop, you wind downward to a parking area and pay a nominal fee to enter the park-like atmosphere. The afternoon sun can be broiling, but a step into the shade lowers the temperature a good twenty degrees F. The first full view of the 115 foot waterfall forces a “Wow.” 

Although you’re some distance from the falls, you must be careful walking. During the rainy season, with the falls at their maximum, the mist and spray dampens every surface for seventy-five plus yards making the trek a bit slippery. Giant cedar, mahogany and sapodilla trees abound and enclose visitors and the waterfall.

If you leave the viewing spot and path to walk back beside the riverside for a better shot, be particularly careful. The already slick ramp becomes even slicker among the gleaming gray rocks.

An inviting trail continues through the drenching mist and meanders under the thunderous pouring water. Smiling tourists carefully stepped from behind the falls and waved to friends on the trail when not straining to look directly up at the tumbling water. As much as I desired to explore behind the falls to take pictures the spray was far too heavy, unless I was willing to soak my camera. Additionally, I almost took a bad fall slipping on the river rocks and didn’t want to repeat a stumble. 

Besides native Mayans, a host of nationalities visit Misol-Há. The encompassing jungle and coolness from the mist must bring strangers together at the falls. Two young French women witnessed my embarrassing slip. They rushed toward me to ensure I’d not broken anything. It was a good feeling being reminded travelers keep an eye out for one another.

I’d already eaten and the afternoon was dying rapidly so I didn’t stop to enjoy a drink or meal when I left Misol-Há, On reflection, the park had such an inviting little European-looking restaurant and the stewards had done such an excellent job keeping Misol-Ha’ garden-like, I regretted not enjoying at least a snack there.

There are a few other falls and famous cascades in the area to visit for those that must return to Palenque and coastal Mexico. For me the trip was further west and into a lesser explored region. The narrow highway was perfect for several miles past Misol-Há but deteriorated rapidly. Ask about Highway 199’s road conditions if you go further. Also visit the falls earlier in the day than I did. My trip occurred after heavy rains had soaked the region and damaged the asphalt. Barely marked holes and road cave-ins became a common sight. 

I’ve never heeded the warnings about driving through Mexico at night. This trip produced a ride that made me second guess my decision. I had a long dark ride after encountering the first wash-off. The travel was slow and I had to pass about a dozen badly caved-in sections of highway and drop off areas before reaching Ocosingo. Although, I still travel Mexico at night, I do check to be sure heavy rains haven’t damaged two-lane highways in previous weeks.

I don’t worry about missing the scenery by traveling at night. It’s a price I often pay for lingering longer than planned at one scenic or historic area. On this trip my objective was Ocosingo and Toniná. I’ll travel Highway 199 in the future and I expect other spectacular scenic and or archeological sites may be open by then, providing me yet more reasons to enjoy prolonging a visit once again.

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Shrimp, Shrimp, and more shrimp. Shrimp dishes dominate the menu of each and every seafood restaurant in Mazatlan and with good reason.  Mazatlan shrimp boats capture more sizes and supply of shrimp than any other country making it the shrimp capital of the world.

Mazatlan didn't always fish shrimp. In the 1930s, Japanese fisherman contributed and demonstrated new shrimping techniques to Mexico and an industry.  Since then, many changes have occurred and seventy-five years later, the industry is the largest in the world. 

The city further cemented its claim when it concocted the largest shrimp cocktail in the world last year. The cocktail weighed an incredible 1,187 lbs (538.5 kilos).  On my visits, I don't order a cocktail of that size but I do enjoy a multitude of shrimps prepared many different ways. And if I had a weekend, here is what I would recommend:

Start the Shrimp Crawl.

Spend the morning on the beach of the golden zone get some sun. Walk along the soft sands and build up your appetite on your way to the colorful beachfront restaurant Alagua for lunch.

To start, order an ice cold Pacifico (the local beer) and shrimp ceviche. When the shrimp arrives scoop it on to the tostadas on the table with a dash of hot sauce (if desired). Next order a shrimp speciality. I would suggest the Mojo a Ajo, a combination of chile spice and fresh lime marinated on a grilled shrimp. The lighter dish will make a perfect lunch selection. 

After your afternoon at the beach, freshen up and take a pulmonia taxi along the malecon to the edge of old town for dinner. Established in the 1960s and the home of the original Señor Frogs, el Shrimp Bucket specializes in shrimp. Most guests order an individual bucket of shrimp, but I recommend finding someone to share a meal and ordering the boat (barco) of shrimp.  A generous portion of 30 shrimp served in many different ways: beer battered, fried, grilled, cocktail, coconut crusted, and wrapped with bacon. When the boat arrives or docks on the table it includes a candle to keep the shrimp warm as the true feeding frenzy begins. 

But even before the shrimp boat arrives, sample the true Mazatlan speciality - shrimp aquachile. The raw, fresh shrimp soaked in a special green sauce is a a perfect starter and a must in Mazatlan.  

More Shrimp for Day 2

Start your morning on Stone Island, the picturesque and secluded beach area south of old town and enjoy a morning of rest and relaxation. Then for lunch, head back across the waterway via a local ferry to the main docks. There you will find the family-style restaurant of La Puntilla. To start, order a michelada, which is a glass filled with ice and some lime juice and a salted rim with your favorite beer and take in the breeze. It's both refreshing and revitalizing. 

Most people come with a group and if you do, definitely start with a massive seafood tray that includes oysters, scallops, and multiple shrimp options including a pate. Also, make sure you grab one of the oversized peel and eat steamed shrimps - both sweet and savory.  You will think you are eating lobster.  Then for lunch, try the classic - shrimp tacos. It's a coastal favorite. 

For dinner, head to the heart of old town and its Plaza Machado. On one of the corners of the square, you will find Pedro & Lola's. Sit down outside, take in the vibe, and enjoy the live music offered. The garlic octopus is a wonderful starter but on the shrimp crawl, order the shrimp empanandas and you will not be disappointed. 

For your main, select one of the house specialities.  I would suggest the sinful shrimp wrapped with bacon with cheese. All three items are delicious by themselves and then when put together on a plate at Pedro & Lola's, well the word that comes to mind is divinity. It's delicious. 

Shrimp Overload on Day 3

Since I am sure you loved the Old Town, I recommend you return in the day time to walk the historic streets. For lunch, make sure you stumble upon Bahia Mariscos. In the heart of Mazatlan, a small open courtyard restaurant serves shrimp every which way. And it was here I discovered my favorite shrimp dish of the city: shrimp (camarones) zarandeados. The dish is prepared inside a covered tin foil and steamed (probably on a grill) with peppers, onions and special spices. Simply divine. 

Finally, after tasting so much delicious shrimp, you may desire something different. If so, I'd suggest the local steak at La Casa Country.  I ordered the recommended rib-eye medium rare and could have stopped there but I didn't. Apparently I needed to complete the shrimp crawl, and you do too. So make your meal a surf and turf and add three grilled shrimp... gluttonous, maybe, but delicious nonetheless. 

In three days one can digest more shrimp than many people eat in three months or maybe even three years. Yet this three-day crawl only scratches the surface on how many ways shrimp is prepared in Mazatlan. But trying new creative shrimp dishes will just be another reason to return to Mazatlan, Mexico.

Stay adventurous, Craig

Disclaimer: I'd like to thank the Mazatlan Hotel Association for inviting as their guest to most of these restaurants. 

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23.236111
-106.415278
Mazatlan

The natives from the area use to say that Pátzcuaro was the place where heaven’s doors opened and the gods ascended to the sky. Its original name Tzacapu-ansucutinpatzcuaro actually means “door to heaven”. 

In 1540, Don Vasco de Quiroga moved the bishop of Michoacán from Tzintzuntzan to Pátzcuaro, turning it into the capital of Michoacán. The town is a true jewel of colonial architecture where one can appreciate religious monuments from the baroque and neoclassic eras. Most of the town’s buildings have adobe walls and tiled roofs that in combination with its fountains and plazas have allowed it to retain its original colonial essence. 

The town’s artisanal landscape consists woodwork, forged steel, copper, tin, pottery and textiles. The town is well known for its production of colonial style wooden furniture, cork products, metal artwork, artistic jewelry, and religious figures. The region also has two archeological zones, Ihatzio and Tzintzuntzan, as well as lakes, forests and mountains that provide visitors with a variety of adventure tourism opportunities. 

On November 1st and 2nd the town puts on a spectacular indigenous “Noche de Muertos” (Day of the Dead) celebration that has achieved international recognition. As part of this celebration, the towns people decent onto the municipal cemetery to leave ornate offerings to their diseased friends and relatives. 

The cuisine from Michoacán is well known throughout Mexico. In Pátcuaro you can sample a variety of types of tamales, one of Michoacán’s gastronomical staples. Other regional dishes include acúmara; a white fish that is famous in the region, and tarasca soup; a soup made out of tortilla, cheese, and tomato sauce. 

The Pueblos Magicos program identifies towns that reflect “the culture of Mexico” through attributes like architecture, traditions, customs, music, gastronomy, festivities and handcrafts. There are currently 52 destinations throughout Mexico that have earned the Pueblos Magicos classification.  

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19.516389
-101.609722
Pátzcuaro

A new trade show in Mexico City, Mexico has just been launched by Clarion Events North America (CENA) called ExpoProducción with the intention of spotlighting the apparel of Mexico and Central America. The show will take place on February 6-8, 2013 at the World Trade Center in Mexico City with the support of the Cámara Nacional de la Industria del Vestido and the Mexican industry publication, MexCostura. ExpoProducción will house an assortment of textile products, apparel, technical textiles, and fabrics and will present vital technological information on the supply chain of such products. The event will also serve as an important networking event for individuals from all over the world.

In a press release about the upcoming event, Clarion Events North America’s President, David Aubrain described, “This show will be the only one of its kind in Mexico and will focus on delivering superior value and assistance to the garment and sewn products manufacturing market in this important and growing region,”

 The trade show will take place in Mexico City strategically because of the city’s position as a hub of textile and industrial production in Mexico. As demand goes up for local Mexican goods, the whole textile industry and apparel in Mexico is becoming more and more competitive because of the high quality of state of the art goods.

Meetings like this new ExpoProducción trade show in Mexico City have also had a staggering economic impact on the economy of Mexico. In a study called the “Economic Impact of the Meetings Activity in Mexico” the meetings industry in Mexico is documented to contribute around $18.1 billion every year to the country’s GDP. For more information on the economic impact of the meetings industry on Mexico visit the article on mexicotoday.org.

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19.432608
-99.133208
Mexico City

Some of the most interesting traditions of Mayan culture were the pilgrimages they made before the Spanish conquest. For hundreds of years, ancient Mayans would embark on adventurous pilgrimages from Pole on Yucatan to the island of Cozumel. These pilgrimages were inspired by ancient traditions and a want to worship the goddess of fertility, Ixcel. Worship usually took place at the modern site of the San Gervasio ruins.

These pilgrimages were believed to bring a new sense of equilibrium and meaning to the Mayan world and make the pilgrims feel at ease with the shifting nature of the universe. Six years ago, the custom of these ancient Mayan pilgrimages found its revival at Xcaret, a park close to Cancun, where Pole used to be. Xcaret still contains a hint of the elaborately distinct Mayan culture that once filled the lands. In the area, a barter type of economy composed of chocolate and beans is still being utilized. During the pilgrimage to Cozumel, Mexico people dress in intricate multicolored outfits, journey miles by canoe, and embrace the Mayan rituals of the past. People also take place in dances of joy, fire, and rebirth. The 2013 Sacred Mayan Journey will take place in mid-May 2013.

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20.431006
-86.908065
Cozumel

With a pre-Hispanic and colonial expressions, Tepoztlán is a town in the state of Morelos only 45 miles away from Mexico City that can make you rediscover your senses. From the paper-made handicrafts, to the corn patties stuffed with crema, hot sauce and grated cheese, and hiking up a pyramid, Tepoztlán can offer any tourist great ways to discover the wonders of pre-Hispanic and colonial Mexico. 

Here are a couple of things that make Tepoztlán a great destination for your next travel adventure:

• Its food includes pre-Hispanic influences and ingredients. Its most traditional ingredient is the corn which is in every day meals accompanied by tamales, beans, and squash with red or green mole. For dessert, the local ice cream features exotic flavors.

• Local handicrafts are colorful and often paper-made. The teponaxtle is a unique instrument made since pre-Hispanic times that brings a lot of attention to tourists.

• One of its villages, namely Amatlán, is known for its traditional medicine practitioners who offer ancient temazcal steam baths, massages and cleansings – great for a spa kind of day for tourists. Two campgrounds, Meztitla and Camohmila, are also places to explore where you can find swimming pools, playing fields, cabins and areas for camping. 

• The Chichinautzin Biological Corridor nature preserve is also a great place to visit where you can explore a unique ecosystem in the center of the country.

To learn more about Tepoztlán, click here.

The Pueblos Magicos program identifies towns that reflect “the culture of Mexico” through attributes like architecture, traditions, customs, music, gastronomy, festivities and handcrafts. There are currently 52 destinations throughout Mexico that have earned the Pueblos Magicos classification.

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18.985278
-99.099722
Tepoztlan

The Guanajuato International Film Festival, the largest and most prominent film festival and competition in Mexico, will take place this year on July 20-25 in Guanajuato, Mexico. The Guanajuato International Film Festival’s main goal is to spread cultural awareness through film in a non-profit format. The festival is open and free to the general public and celebrates the diversity of filmmaking and humanity. Renowned Mexican and international filmmakers have participated in the festival every year since 1998, making it a truly multicultural event set to inspire and bring individuals together from all over the world. This year the Guanajuato International Film Festival will honor the music, culture, and film of the Netherlands by planning a variety of different workshops and retrospectives set to shed light on the varying aspects of life in the Netherlands. Every year, the festival highlights the culture of one country in particular.

One of the newly established aspects of the film festival in Mexico is a GIFF Residence program that will be implemented starting in January 2013. The GIFF Residence program will invite international instructors to mentor the artists of the future in both thematic development and technique. Sarah Hoch, the executive director of GIFF stated, “The GIFF Residence is actually a house that will be occupied by eight filmmakers at a time, who may each be working on different stages of a given project, and who will be advised by national and international experts, with the common goal of completing their films.”

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21.018111
-101.258320
Guanajuato

For the sixth time this year, Mexican rally driver and Mexico Brand Ambassador Ricardo Triviño is crowned as Champion for the FIA NACAM Region comprised of North, Central, and northern South America and Caribbean. Check out a photo of Ricardo Triviño's car.

I travel to Mexico frequently—mostly for the food. And whenever I come across a cooking class in Mexico, I almost always give it a shot. Last month I wrote about a class in Puebla where I learned to make an incredible mole poblano. I also wrote about the fish tacos at Four Seasons Punta Mita, from an afternoon cooking class at the resort’s beachside grill, Bahía (where they serve an incredible white sangria), led by celebrity chef Richard Sandoval and executive chef Philippe Piel. Here’s another recipe from that class: a super-easy, incredibly delicious grilled octopus with cactus pico de gallo.  

Step One is is to catch an octopus!

Good luck with that. (Actually, it’s pretty easy these days to find good quality frozen octopus any decent fish seller.) The Four Seasons is lucky enough to have a bunch of local fishermen who catch the fresh octopus in the ocean in front of the resort (or somewhere thereabouts). 

Step Two is optional. Personally, when I’m cooking octopus, I prefer to kneed it to remove a bit of its natural liquid. Chef Sandoval doesn’t do this. He prefers that slightly gooey texture which results from the octopus’ natural juices. I prefer my octopus a bit less gelatinous, so here’s an easy next step that’s not actually included in Sandoval’s recipe below. Take the octopus and put it in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, and turn it on. Let it kneed slowly, like bread dough, until the octopus becomes really, really frothy. You’ll be amazed at how much sudsy liquid the octopus will release. Once it’s nice and frothy, remove the octopus, rinse it well, and follow the rest of the recipe as it’s written below. 

Grilled Pacific Octopus with Cactus Pico de Gallo

2 Octopus (octopi?)

½ cup Mirepoix (chopped celery, onion and carrot)

5 or 6 Guajillo chiles, soaked until softened

2 Tbsp. Chipotle puree

1 Tbsp. Garlic

1 tsp. Oregano

1 tsp. Cumin

½ cup Soy sauce

1 tsp. Salt

2 Tbsp. White vinegar

⅓ cup Oil

½ tsp. Black pepper

½ cup Cactus paddle, peeled, salted and rinsed

½ cup Diced tomato

½ cup Diced red onion

½ cup Crumbled panela cheese

¼ cup Cilantro, chopped

1 Serrano chile, seeded, chopped

1 lime, juice of

⅓ cup Olive tapenade

¼ cup Lemon juice

1 Tbsp. Honey

¼ cup Champagne vinegar

½ cup Olive oil

Extra lemon juice

2 cups Arugula

1. Catch an octopus

2. Optional octopus prep (see above)

3. Wash the octopus, rinsing it several times. Bring a pot of water to boil and add the octopus, letting it cook until any last bit of foam comes to the surface. Remove the foam with a strainer. Add the mirepois and bay leaf, reduce the heat, and simmer for about an hour, more or less, until nice and tender. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Cut off and reserve the tentacles. Fire up the grill. 

4. While the octopus is cooling and grill is heating up, make the marinade: In a blender, combine the chiles, garlic, oregano, cumin, soy sauce, salt, 2 Tbsp. vinegar and ⅓ cup of olive oil. Puree until fully blended and smooth. Add the octopus tentacles and toss well. 

5. Make a salsa by combining the cactus, tomato, onion, cheese, cilantro, serrano, lime juice and olive tapenade.  

6. Now make a vinaigrette by whisking together the lemon juice, honey, ¼ cup vinegar and ½ cup olive oil. 

7. Cook the octopus on a very hot grill until it begins to char around the edges, but being careful not to overcook all the way through. (It’s already cooked; the idea here is to reheat it by charring it over the flames.)

8. Squeeze a lemon over the octopus, and serve it over the arugula, topped off with the salsa. 

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For a beautiful fifty-image slideshow that accompanies this essay, go to 

bit.ly/MjLheg

Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua. Mexico's front-line in an ongoing battle will have reason to cheer next month, not for the defeat of another greedy gang, but for a heartfelt victory of pride in cultural tradition at an important time in Mexican history

Armed with little more than positive attitudes and leather vaquero clothing unchanged for centuries, several hundred riders will set off on horseback from this teeming northern city on a mission of good will, intent on vanquishing long stretches of the unforgiving desert with camaraderie, and an endurance beyond most imaginations. 

This will be the 17th annnual Cabalgata Villista, an epic horse trek started in 1996 by Jose Socorro Salcido Gomez, in memory of Mexican revolutionary general Pancho Villa, and the inspired nationalism he still brings to people today. The 2012 cavalcade will last for approximately ten days, from July 14th to the 24th, but its influence will be felt for far longer.

Undaunted by blistering summer temperatures, the assembled riders wend their way southward through mesquite and chaparral, fording rivers and skirting brush, averaging 35-40 kilometers a day along paths known to very few. Pedro Pallares, guide and horseman extraordinaire, leads the march, astride a most patient mule he occasionally stands up on. The Mexican flag has pride of place, flying high at the front of a column three-abreast, as does Chicho Martinez, playing the part of Villa, sitting ramrod straight in the saddle hour after dusty hour.

Accompanied by a rag-tag army of horse trailers, dented pickups and powerful utility vehicles, suppport teams drive ahead along concrete roads shimmering in the heat, making their way slowly down through the crunch of gravel into towns too small to be on many maps, like El Charco, first stop after Chihuahua City. Tracks that lead nowhere are soon found out, and binoculars turn out to be useful tools. Water is rare, and in long stretches nonexistent. Camping every night, riders and their families pick up new participants, jinetes, along the way. One rises at dawn, military style, complete with bugle reveille. With each day, the cavalcade grows in size, bolstered by fresh horses and and a patriotic spirit. There is a palpable sense of community, with plenty of children riding, some masterfully, families all tenting together, and the work of saddlery and equine care shared by all.

Towns turn out their best, too - at almost every overnight stop, there is a fiesta, which no nationality throws as well as Mexico. The beer is cold, and tequila flows freely during the day as well as at night. In Satevo, a town of some size situated by a pretty river, everyone decamped right in the zocalo, the main square in town, shaded by trees with thick green foliage, and made truly complete by a recently restored colonial church gleaming minimalist white against Chihuahua's startling blue desert sky.

On an arduous journey like this, when shade is an exception, a sombrero is required, and the sheer variety of these is fascinating, from the light, woven straw of a cowboy-style hat, to the massive three-foot curled brim of some 

of the Jalisco riders. Clothes are utilitarian, and necessarily so, with fine dust permeating everything, but bandanna colors abound, and protective leather chaps, boots and gauntlets sport gorgeous embossed designs and the individuality of their owners.

From El Faro, the trail leads down into a valley and then through cool hills, where mesquite's proximity to water makes their sweet bean-like fruit appropriate for picking as one sways by. The only stop during the day is the dry riverbed crossing at the hamlet of El Velduque. With stony sand banks under the shade of tamarisk trees, it is a half-hour water stop for the horses only, some of whom, free from their saddles, wriggle about on their backs in the riverbed, tired but excited to be scratching at last. The difficulty of pulling off a cultural commemoration like this in the middle of July is not to be underestimated; at this stop, one of the horses, seen to be oddly walking backward, died shortly thereafter of a heart attack, exhaustion the likely cause.

After a twelve-hour ride through some of the driest territory yet, and a brief attack by a swarm of Africanized bees, the procession is welcomed by the biggest party of all in Valle de Zaragoza, where the muddy waters of the Rio Conchos support farming for miles around. At the gates of the town, new jinetes awaited, curious onlookers lined the turn-off, and schoolchildren manned a charming hand-painted float swathed in flags and bandoliers, topped off by a life-size cardboard General Villa and accompanied the town's beauty queen, radiant in a white dress.

Vehicles of every kind jam the fairgrounds by the river, and in the cool of late afternoon, a contentment sets in; the bands play, kids build sandcastles at the shore, and everyone settles down to the cabalgata's well-deserved main feast, grilled river fish, chile con carne, tortillas, and ice-cold Tecate in cans by the thousand. Couples ride about two-on-a-horse, and everyone is here, because this is the place to be.

While it might seem counterintuitive to have a 577 kilometer march like this in the middle of summer, there is a historical reason for it, as the procession ends in the mountain landscape of Hidalgo de Parral on June 20th, the date General Villa was murdered in the town he loved. That this journalist's hosts decided against documenting the reenactment says a lot; that there has been enough killing in the news, for instance. For the positive spirit it takes to show this kind of pride in one's heritage, and for the enthusiastic young men and women who will carry on the tradition of the cabalgata, words of admiration alone are not enough.

Jay Dunn, 

Hidalgo de Parral, Mexico

For a beautiful fifty-image slideshow that accompanies this essay, go to 

bit.ly/MjLheg

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Ciudad Juarez

It’s Sunday evening and the stadium seats at the Arena Coliseo in Mexico City are filling up fast. The lights in the stadium dim signaling the start to the evening’s events and the announcer climbs into the ring. Music blares from speakers overhead, girls in bikinis line up alongside the ring and masked men in colorful spandex emerge through a cloud of smoke. One by one the luchadores (wrestlers) tumble into the ring and climb up on the ropes. They’re greeted with shouts and cheers from the crowd. 

It’s a scene that repeats itself each week, to the delight of hundreds of fans; but even if you’re not a big fan of wrestling, it’s still easy to get caught up in the excitement and spectacle of it all. Lucha Libre (Mexican wrestling) matches are a favorite attraction for visitors to Mexico City and routinely attract a large and diverse crowd made up of people of all ages, nationalities and economic backgrounds.

Lucha Libre, literally “free fight,” is the term used to describe professional Mexican wrestling. Lucha Libre emerged in Mexico in the 1930’s and grew in popularity over the next couple of decades, fueled in large part by the advent of the television and the emergence of luchadores as pop culture icons. In fact, lucha libre is so popular in Mexico that many masked luchadores stay in character outside of the ring as well; posing for photos, giving interviews or appearing in public wearing their masks.

The masks, or máscaras, help to define the character and personality of the luchador and getting unmasked by an opponent during a match is the ultimate insult. One of the most popular luchadores to ever fight in Mexico, the silver-masked El Santo (The Saint), first took to the ring in 1942 in Mexico City, and his career spanned nearly five decades. He continued to wear his mask after retirement and his character has since acquired folk hero status, having gone on to appear in comic books and movies. You’ll often see fans wearing the mask of El Santo at sporting events, parades and even protests.

Lucha libre matches are staged between tag teams, or groups made up of two, three or four members who take turns in the ring. It’s almost always the good guys, or técnicos, versus the bad guys, or rudos, and the técnicos almost always win. A typical match lasts just over two hours, during which time there will be four or five individual fights each consisting of several rounds. Not unlike professional wrestling in the U.S., there’s lots of comedy, drama, suspense and high-flying aerial maneuvers.

The excitement of attending a lucha libre match begins before you even enter the stadium. The luchadores often head out into the street to pose for photos with fans and there’s an open-air market that sets up outside the entrance to the stadium where you’ll find stall after stall of masks, t-shirts and other lucha libre paraphernalia. Plan to get there early and leave yourself plenty of time to browse the market; the tequila bottle toppers in the shape of luchador masks make great souvenirs!

If you go: There are two lucha libre venues in Mexico City, Arena México and Arena Coliseo. The 17,000 seat Arena México (Dr. Lavista 197, Doctores), hosts weekly matches every Friday night at 8:30pm. The smaller, but more centrally located Arena Coliseo (República de Perú 77, Centro Historico), hosts weekly matches every Sunday at 5pm and Tuesday at 7:30pm. At both stadiums, tickets can be purchased directly from the box office before the start of the match and range in price from 45 pesos (about $3.60) for balcony seats to several hundred pesos for ring side seating. Expect to pay around 90-100 pesos (about $7.20-$8) for good seats; close enough that you’ll be able to see all the action, but far enough away that you won’t have have to worry about a luchador landing in your lap.

Considerations: Cameras are not permitted at either of the venues. If you bring one you’ll be asked to leave it with security and pick it up at the end of the match. Don’t forget! If you’re not comfortable being separated from your camera then the best option is to leave it behind. Cell phones, even those with cameras, are allowed inside and are your best bet for taking photographs during the match.

For schedules and information about upcoming events visit CMLL.com.

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19.432608
-99.133208
Mexico City

For the few of you who don’t know María del Rosario Espinoza yet, that is about to change. Espinoza, reigning Olympic champion in the +67 kg weight class for taekwondo, will be the official flag bearer for Mexico in the 2012 London Olympics. In addition to competing for another gold medal in London, she was chosen to represent her country in the parade of nations that will take place on July, 27th. 

Born in La Brecha, Sinaloa, Espinoza showed potential in martial arts from a young age. After winning the 2003 Pan-American Youth Championships in 2003, she has been on a mission to dominate the female taekwondo circuit. Espinoza caught the eyes of millions around the world after defeating Nina Solheim of Norway for the gold medal in Beijing. Although taekwondo has only been a full medal sport since the 2000 Olympics in Sydney, Australia, Espinoza has made her country proud through her success and determination in the ring thus far.

After being selected as the national flag-bearer, Espinoza stated that, “this is something so important to my family and me”. Being able to compete in Taekwondo and to represent her nation is an incredible opportunity from her perspective. “For me, it is a dream come true to have the ability to represent Mexico in the Olympic Games, but to be the flag bearer is the culmination of another dream.” At just 24, María del Rosario Espinoza has already made history in becoming the second woman to win a gold medal for Mexico in 2008.

If past performance is any indication of success in the future, then keep a close eye on Espinoza, who has already established herself as the favorite to take home the gold in London. In addition, Espinoza’s teammate and fellow Mexican competitor, Janet Alegría, will compete in the 49-kg and under event in London. The Olympic taekwondo event will consist of a single elimination tournament for each of the weight categories. Coverage starts August 8th through the 11th. 

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As the start of the 2012 London Olympics draws closer and closer, fans around the globe can look forward to watching the world’s top athletes compete in the most far-reaching sports competition known to man. From July 27th through August 12th, England will open its doors to over 10,000 different athletes along with masses of eager spectators. The main venue will be at Olympic Park, the city’s new stadium located in the Stratford area. In addition to the new stadium, the city of London has prepared itself for what will surely be a historic occasion. The city revamped its transportation system, hotel accommodations, and tourism opportunities. With the games boasting 302 events in 26 sports, the London Olympics has something for just about any sports fan.

The top Mexican athletes will have a strong presence in London this summer, as more than 80 competitors will represent their native country in almost two dozen events. Mexico’s success has been recognized throughout the history of the Olympics, and its athletes have won a total of 55 medals in the past. Mexico has forward momentum coming into London after several successful campaigns back in the 2008 Olympics. Both Guillermo Pérez Sandoval and Maria Del Rosario Espinoza took the gold in men’s and women’s Olympic taekwondo in Beijing, and Paola Espinosa Sánchez and Tatiana Ortiz Galicia together won the Bronze medal in the Women’s Olympic diving synchronized 10 meter platform. 

For the 2012 London Olympics, Mexico is a medal contender in Taekwondo, diving, track and field, boxing, and soccer. Mexican athletes in other disciplines will also be fighting for a spot on the podium come late July to bring their names into the history books. Be sure to keep up with Mexico Today’s in-depth coverage of the 2012 London Summer Olympics. We will be giving you a bird’s eye view on everything happening in this year’s games, and will keep you up to date on the statuses of all Mexico’s competitors.

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In October 2011 Guadalajara, Jalisco hosted the XVI Pan American Games, an international multi-sport event with approximately 6,000 athletes from 42 nations. While the majority of the events where held in Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco’s biggest cities, the small village of Tapalpa was selected to played host to some of the world’s best mountain bikers. In recent year, this once sleepy village has turned into a tourism magnet. Its unique mountainous landscape has made it a popular destination among extreme sports fanatics such as mountain bikers, hang gliders and paragliders

In addition to adventure tourism, Tapalpa – which means “Land of Colors” in Nahuatl –  is a popular destination for tourists looking for a taste of old Mexico. This historical town is best known for its community fountains and architectural attractions like the San Antonio Parish Church, the Purisima Chapel, the Temple of Nuestra Señora de la Merced and the Temple of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. 

The community fountains, known locally as pilas, are still used by the town’s inhabitants as a source of water and have retained their original names of De las Culebras (The Snakes'), Del Tecolote (The Owl's), Del Perro (The Dog's) and La Colorada (The Red One). At the center of the town you will find the San Antonio Parish Church, a neo-classical structure that was built out of brick by the Franciscans in 1650. What’s most impressive about the church I the precision and leveling achieved by the Franciscans while using brick as the primary building material. 

Tapalpa is also the source of one of Jalisco’s most famous dishes, borrego al pastor, which is still especially famous in Tapalpa because it inhabitants continue to cook it in the traditional style. This regional specialty involves cooking a whole lamb in white wine, bay leaf, onion, garlic and peppers. 

The Pueblos Magicos program identifies towns that reflect “the culture of Mexico” through attributes like architecture, traditions, customs, music, gastronomy, festivities and handcrafts. There are currently 52 destinations throughout Mexico that have earned the Pueblos Magicos classification.  

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Tapalpa

The Hanging Gardens of Babylon, magnificent.  The Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, amazing.  The Colossus of Rhodes, stupendous. Just reading about the wonders of the ancient world both inspires the imagination and creates awe. Yet these, and the rest of the original seven wonders of the ancient world, with the exception of the Great Pyramid at Giza, are all gone.

But nestled in the Mexican Basin, just 30 miles north-east of México City, stands an ancient wonder of the New World, one you can still see, touch, and explore, the great city of Teotihuacán, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, featuring the great Pyramids of the Sun, the Moon, and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent, Quetzalcóatl.

Much still needs to be learned about the city itself and the people who once lived there. The name Teotihuacán was given after the city’s rise and fall by the Aztecs in their Náhuatl language.  Neither Aztec nor Mayan, scholarly debate continues as to exactly who the people were who built the city.  Different theories are mentioned including Toltec, Totonac, and Otomi among others. Whoever archaeologists, linguists, and historians finally establish as the builders of the city, there is no question it was a large multi-ethnic city including, in addition to those already mentioned, populations of Zapotec, Mixtec, Nahua, Maya along with many others. And the Teotihuacano civilization’s influence is undeniable, reaching as far as Guatemala and beyond. 

Believed to be settled around 100 BC (BCE), some say earlier, the ancient city’s core features the impressive Pyramids of the Sun, the Moon, and the Temple of Quetzalcóatl, among many other structures, including those referred to as talud-tablero platforms. All these structures stand along what is known as the Avenue of the Dead, a broad and very straight thoroughfare through the center of the city. The avenue’s somewhat unfortunate name also comes from the Aztecs, who believed the flat topped talud-tablero buildings were tombs. Today, it is believed these structures, rather than tombs, were platforms upon which temples were built.  What’s particularly impressive about the city, beyond its obvious vast scale and its incredible, sculpted stones and colorful murals, is the precise layout of the city according to the builders’ thorough understanding of the solar system some 1400-1700 years before Galileo.  

The city is believed to have reached a population of between 125,000 and 200,000 at its peak and it’s an archaeological treasure trove where new discoveries are made often.  I think it only fair to warn you, therefore, that throwing away your current career and becoming an archaeologist is always a risk once you’ve visited this awe-inspiring site.

On your google map, just drop the coordinates N19 41 30.012 W98 50 30.012 into your search box to get a good look at the location, its proximity to México City, and other points of interest.

If you are fortunate enough and you do get a chance to visit Teotihuacán, I recommend reading a little about the site and taking advantage of any interpretive exhibits at the entrance before walking out to the avenue.  It will enrich and inform your visit to the site. 

If you are fit, the view from the top of either the Pyramid of the Sun or the Pyramid of the Moon, or both, if you are some sort of extreme athlete, cannot be beat.

But the compound called the Ciudadela (the Citadel), so named by Spanish conquistadors because they believed it to be a fort, encloses the breathtaking Temple of Quetzalcóatl and for me holds a special fascination and beauty. I get goosebumps, the good kind, when there, and the sculptural details on the temple are jaw dropping.

Here are just a few things to remember when you go: 

I want to emphasize the massive size of the site.  The Avenue of the Dead is 4 km long (about 2 km are open to the public) and 40 meters wide.  So bring comfortable shoes, a hat, snacks, water, lightweight rain gear, sunscreen, cash, and a camera. Our 3 year old was with us the last time we went.  My husband carried him on his shoulders a lot.  In spite of his adventurous spirit, the pyramids would have been too much for my son to climb, however, there is plenty of space for him to explore.  Just keep in mind that if walking up the pyramids is in your plan, an extra pair of eyes and hands may be needed to witness the ascents from your child’s side while the rest of the group goes up.

Keep in mind, too, this part of Mexico sits pretty high up, about 7000 feet (~2100 m), and the site is in a wide open valley, so it can be hot or cold, wet or dry, windy or dead still.  Make sure to carry plenty of water so you don’t have to cut your explorations short due to thirst. And remember, unless you’re from a couple thousand feet above Denver, the air is probably thinner at Teotihuacán than at home, so pace yourself accordingly.

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